May Recon, The Darkside!
For May’s Recon, we visit the darker side of our profiles with a selection from Papua New Guinea and Sumatra. Contrary to popular belief, dark roasts are not any easier to create than lighter roasts. Okay, let me clarify, good dark roasts are not any easier. Sure, we could drive the roast hard and drop the beans right before they catch fire (smoke ‘em if you got ‘em!) but no one needs that much hair on their chests. The approach to a dark roast begins like most other roasts, but with a few small differences. Time, temperature, bean color, aroma, and the audible first crack are all factored in to achieve the desired outcome. One additional indicator with a dark roast is the audible second crack.
Let me break down first and second crack for you real quick. First crack happens when the moisture in the bean gets so hot that it basically vaporizes and the bean structure ruptures releasing the steam with an audible “pop” or “crack” similar to pop-corn. It also indicates the beginning of development (for the purposes of “doneness”) and arguably the most consequential phase that will determine final roast level and flavor of the bean.
The second crack occurs as the bean gets hotter and carbon dioxide releases from the brittle bean structure. This rapid and subtle “snap” sounds like a bowl of Rice Crispies in milk. (Yes, you can pause and go grab a bowl, for science of course!) As the bean breaks down, it also becomes more porous, allowing the oils and other compounds to come to the surface. That’s why darker roasted beans appear shiny or oily compared to their light and medium counterparts. The oil was always in the bean, even at lighter roasts, but now it has an opportunity to escape (free the oil!)
The roast approach for both the Papua New Guinea (or PNG) and Sumatra were nearly identical despite going through different processing methods at origin. The PNG is a “washed” process coffee, while the Sumatra is “wet hulled.” Okay, I’ll explain:
Wash-processing is a common method where the seeds are first pulped, fermented in their mucilage from 8 to 24 hours, then washed clean in water. The seeds are then moved to beds or patios for drying and afterwards hulled prior to storage and shipping.
Wet-hulling is done in rainy, humid climates that make other methods of drying coffee less effective. Also called semi-washed, the hull of the coffee is removed after pulping and before they are completely dry to help speed drying to an acceptable level for storage and shipping. This process is tough on the beans and causes damage that results in the unique shape of the beans after processing. It is also credited with the “earthy” tasting notes often associated with Sumatran coffees.
Initial test roasts of the PNG showed it behaved like the Sumatra. We’ve been roasting Sumatra for a few years and it is a staple component of Black Knight and Blue Ridge Mornings. While drop temperatures were the same, development time on the PNG was longer than the Sumatra by about 15 seconds. This is likely because PNG was the first roast and Roxy (the roaster) was a little cooler throughout.
With all of that context now bouncing around in your head, let’s get to the yummy part!
The main bag from the Nebilyer Valley in Papua New Guinea offers a full-bodied sweetness with low acidity that is very approachable as a stand-alone cup or with your favorite milk/alternative. While cupping, chocolatey notes with almond and amber honey are well balanced. This delicious coffee will go great with waffles and fried plantains. (I must be hungry right now).
The Sumatra sample bag provides a signature earthiness with bittersweet chocolate, toasted hazelnut and a molasses finish and contrasts the relatively mild PNG. This is a stout stand-alone cup that is an absolute go-to for many and adds boldness and character to anything it is accompanied with. Skip the parfait, and grab a hearty plate of eggs, bacon, and hashbrowns! Go on, you deserve it!
Dark roasts, like their softer, gentler counterparts, are an important part of the coffee spectrum. With quality bean selection, and a thoughtful approach to roasting and brewing, they can truly shine! Or it could just be the oil, but either way, the cup doesn’t lie! We hope this month’s experience has helped you discover a new and informed approach to the darker side of coffee. And if dark isn’t dark enough for you, give our Morning Grog a try. It’s as dark as we go, because the fire department said so…
Happy Cupping!
Adam